PRIMARY MICROPOINT CRASH COURSE: ATOMIZER
Part 1. Getting Started
Rather than confuse you with a lot of talk about technique
and principles, ( which can make Micropoint seem rather more
confusing than it really is,) I suggest we just go right ahead
and DO it.
Let's get down to business.
now take you on a boot camp crash course of the primary
Micropoint technique. It will take four to seven working hours to
complete, at which time you will have a handle on the rudiments
of the method.
Although I touch on other methods, I have chosen to initially
demonstrate the atomizer/Wet-block combination as this is the
easiest, cheapest and fastest method of obtaining results.
Wet-block relies on its chemistry (liquid detergent) to break
down the paint which lands on its surface. In this way you do not
have to wait for the block to dry.
What you need to get:
need the following ingredients for a successful outcome:
1) Stretched, primed canvases. (Do NOT skimp and buy card backed
canvas - it'll get soggy.)
2) Water soluble silk-screen block. 'Ulano' is what I like to
use. It can be bought at most silk screen supply stores. If you
do not have access to this, try water soluble 'La Page' glue. If
you can't find that, try Gum Arabic. Basically, what you need is
any water soluble goop that will resist the spattering of paint.
3) Liquid Dish washing detergent; the green stuff; not Ivory.
4) Acrylic cadmium yellow medium.
5) Acrylic quinacridone violet. (Called 'Acra Violet' by Liquitex.)
6) Acrylic phthalocyanine blue. (Hue 'B' in Liquitex.)
7) Acrylic matte & gloss medium ( no color.)
8) Paint brushes - I recommend Chinese brushes. Water soluble
glue sticks are optional. They give the feel of oil pastel in the
Micropoint medium.( I suggest "Pelifix" by Pelican if
you can find them.)
9) One of the following three:
a. Atomizer; ( Costs under $4.00 and is usually available
at most art stores.) You blow through it. My personal preference.
b. Airbrush; gives a finer spatter.
c. Spray bottle; A 'Windex' bottle is a good example.
Makes a really rough spatter.
10) Assorted jars ( Jam jar size,) with lids.
11) A sponge.
12) A filter. (Pantyhose works well.)
13) A hair dryer. (optional, but saves time.)
If you feel the need to sketch out an image before you apply
paint, I would recommend you buy a 'fabric pen' which can be
purchased at any fabric or sewing store. The advantage of these
markers are that the color chemically dissolves after an
application of water. However, pencil marks are for the most part
covered up quite well by the time you are finished.
Mix water soluble silk-screen block (60%), with liquid dish
washing detergent (10%), and dilute with water (30%). These
measurements are approximate and you can apply more or less water
depending on the consistency with which you like to paint.
However, please remember that you do not want to make the block
too thin, because paint may break through the block and cause
'Burn-out', a nasty effect caused when too much paint is sprayed
at one time on a layer of block which is too thin.
Squeeze the yellow tube of paint into a jar.
Add a small amount of water to each and stir, adding water a
little at a time until you have reached the consistency of coffee
cream. It is important to get all the lumps out of the paint, and
for this reason I highly recommend straining the paint through a fine
mesh; pantyhose is excellent for this purpose.
Put the yellow aside.
Squeeze 10% of the red paint into one jar and the rest of the red
into another jar.
Put three table spoons of acrylic gloss medium and one table
spoon of acrylic matte medium into the jar with the 10% paint.
Add water until you reach the consistency of coffee cream. Strain
for lumps and set aside. Mix the jar with the 90% red as you
would the yellow; just add water until coffee cream consistency
and strain. Set aside.
Take your blue paint and repeat the instructions for the red
exactly. You now have five jars of paint; One yellow, two red and
two blue. If you are using an atomizer, punch a small hole in the
top of the lids of three jars of paint with a nail, wide enough
so that the atomizer can comfortably slot through the hole into
the paint below.
(Note; when you are done, a small piece of masking tape over the
hole stops the jar from leaking paint during transportation.)
We are now ready to begin.